Whanganui Journey

The Whanganui Journey is the black sheep of the Department of Conservation's celebrated Great Walks, for the reason that it is actually a great canoe. The legendary 145km journey from the upper reaches of the Whanganui River in Taumaranui, through Whanganui National Park, to the heartland at Pipiriki, rewards travellers with spectacular scenery coupled with cultural heritage all from the viewpoint of a canoe.

Since the first Polynesians arrived in ‘Te Ika a Maui’, or the ‘North Island’, the Whanganui River has been used as a thoroughfare through what has always been fairly rugged bush terrain from the King Country through Ruapehu Districts to Manawatu. The crafted waka of the Maori have been replaced with canadian canoes and sport kayaks, but little else has changed in the prehistoric forests of the Whanganui. Leg number one starts near Taumaranui township at Ngahuinga (Cherry Grove Domain), travelling at first through farmland, then through native bush. Prepare for a few rapids. The second leg, called Ohinepane to Whakahoro, takes you deeper into steep sided bush covered gorges, passing two campsites called Poukaria and Maharanui.

At Whakahoro, the alternative three day journey starts, and for five day travellers, the big day starts.

It is a whopping 37.5km to John Coull Hut. Scenic secrets unfold downriver, starting to reveal the magic of the Whanganui. A tapu (sacred) cave called Tamatea’s should not be entered. On the third day, through to Tieke Kainga, the bush covered hills widen as the river takes in tributaries, but each large rivers in their own right, the Tangarakau and Whangamomona. Tieke Kainga is a special marae which operates as DoC hut but used to be a proper fortified Pa. Learn what you can and follow protocol here, you will be rewarded with a good marae experience. In the morning, the river widens still with the joining of the Manganuioteao, and then it gets rough for the lightened canoe to have a little bounce on the way down. This 21 km day is best completed early to allow time for disembarking at Pipiriki and returning to your start point.

There is one more special spot to consider visiting first though, Hiruharama (Jerusalem), is 12km south of Pipiriki. History abounds on the entire length of this seemingly peaceable landscape, the scholar can acquaint themselves with the events of the 19th century by checking the links to Te Ara, NZ History and the Waitangi Tribunal.

As with all Great Walks, the Whanganui Journey needs to be booked in the summer, whether using huts or campsites. Most travellers on this route take advantage of the private providers of canoe hire and also transport from the southern end back to their vehicles in Taumaranui or Whakahoro. There are several and some offer add ons like guides, food and private accommodation.

Unlike some DoC walks, this is not a route which can be travelled in reverse! DoC have excellent advice on preparing and packing for great walks and seek feedback on their facebook page. We would like you to feedback to us right here at NZPlaces, if you have done this journey please click the link and tell us all about it.

Images with thanks to Te Papa: Wanganui River, by Nugent Welch. Purchased 1966. Hemotuke, Wanganui River, 01 June 1901, New Zealand, by Muir & Moodie studio, maker unknown. Ngaporo, Wanganui River, New Zealand, 1904-1915, Dunedin, by Muir & Moodie studio. Purchased 1998 with New Zealand Lottery Grants Board funds.