Tarras

In late July 2020, suddenly everyone wanted to know all about Tarras.
The thing to know about Tarras is that it is the home of wonderful light. Captured here upon canvas by Linelle Stacey.

Early Light by Linelle Stacey

The sudden burst of political energy in this arid and remote junction was due to an announcement by the Christchurch Airport Company that they had purchased a few farms for furthering a medium to long term plan to build an international length runway and associated airport facilities. In as much as the locals protested this was a bolt from the blue, there had long been rumblings about supplementing or replacing the hairy ride into Queenstown with a new airfield in the wider valleys near Cromwell. Tarras is the closest thing, since Cromwell itself, the natural heart of Central Otago, already growing at a pace where any runway sized farm had already been overtaken by lifestyle, hobby farming and tourist ventures. Tarras is only 10km from Cromwell and not far from where the mighty Clutha feeds into man-made Lake Dunstan, the opposite shore of which is an increasingly popular destination.

What's there now, and may remain for some time, is an utterly sedate and genteel roadstop, that has barely changed shape since prospectors and pioneers traversed the Lindis Pass on horseback looking for gold or pasture a century and a half ago. Tourists do come here, and so do many regular domestic travellers, because Tarras has petrol for sale, and remains a fair stretch from Omarama to the north. In the mind of many a mainland motorist is an indelible mental note to never go north from Tarras without feeling confident about your gas tank.

Busloads of international visitors who filter through on State Highway Eight in the summer readily trade currency for lunch and goodies at utterly authentic general store, a homegoods retailer named Mrs Robinson's and the obligatory rural merino clothing provider. Approaching it's 100th birthday, upon it's own road named Church Lane, is a pretty combined Anglican and Presbyterian Church with gardens. Eleven children go to Tarras School.

Tarras benefited briefly from the film business, when a scene called Flight to the Ford of Bruinen in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy was filmed here. Anachronistically named 'Maori Point Road' is home to Maori Point Vineyard, one of the furthest flung of Central Otago's growing field of grape growing. Another is named The Canyon at Tarras, and the variety of vineyards at Bendigo are up the Blue Mines and Bendigo Loop roads. Tourists have been encouraged to visit the vicinity by development of the only bush walk in Central Otago, called Kanuka Loop, a hearty hike which takes in the famed views and some gold mining heritage.

Another little pocket of high value development settled in to this community in 2018, located at the top of the Lindis Pass. It is an award winning lodge named The Lindis, a bit beyond the league of the old Historic Hotel which has become a DOC managed campsite amongst the ruins.

The pure irony and oddity of the aviation announcement taking place in the midst of a pandemic when the handbrake on international tourism was jammed fast, seemed absent from the ensuing discussion. More important was that someone sold a farm to a firm instead of a friend, be it unknowingly. The chap apologised, to the whole country, while happening to mention on the side that the land had been unworkable.

What was in Tarras, is still there. What changed, in July 2020, was that a community hall full of farmers made a decent racket upon their ancient floorboards, many upset about aeroplanes, which may or may not some time in the future join them to enjoy the early light and development which is gradually changing the fortunes of Central Otago.

Maybe the airport company executives didn't read the mood of the community, but they seem to possess awareness of what is best captured in description accompanying Ms Stacey's painting:
"It has the rich tawny hues of the hills in early morning, their tussock clad slopes bathed in the first golden light of the clear day to come."