Fort Takapuna O Peretu Fort Cautley and Sculpture on Shore

Anyone heard uttering the classic Kiwi complaint "We have no history" should be sent immediately to O Peretu - Fort Takapuna. For this is where there is evidence in layers, that New Zealand is part of the global community, things have happened here, and continue to happen now.

First custodian, and occasional camper upon this stunning chunk of real estate is said to have been a Tainui ancestor, Perutu, but he was challenged over the years by other tribes, including Ngati Whatua and Kawerau a Maki. However the Crown somehow bought the whole North Shore from the Hauraki Tribes in 1841.

This headland was sold to a businessman called Robert Adam Mosely Stark. If his spot looked like a useful locale for coastal defence, it was. The Government suddenly decided they needed it at the height of the British fears of the Russian invasion following the Russian Turkish War of 1878, and gave Mr Stark seventeen thousand pounds, more than double the government valuation. Public outrage at the sum of the 'Stark Purchase' raised a commission of enquiry. There was no response from Mr and Mrs Stark as they were aboard a ship for San Fransisco and did not return.

'Fort Takapuna', was built in 1885. Aucklands' two existing forts, Albert and Britomartwould not have been much use at fending off Russian Warships as they were designed to combat potential Maori threats.

In a dugout bunker at the peak of the headland, the double brick fortress is adorned like a little castle, and sits atop a maze of underground tunnels. It remains in excellent condition, as desrcibed by Heritage New Zealand. Historical value is placed on the 1885-era barrack building and the associated underground battery, underground engine room and two searchlight emplacements. British Major Henry Cautley was sent to New Zealand to build five forts around Auckland but returned in a hurry for other duties, and it was actually a Major Tudor Boddam who designed and planned the 'disappearing guns' at Takapuna, similar to the ones later installed at Fort Taiaroa. Even though the guns disappeared, a windmill sat atop the hill to power the fort.

Later additions were searchlights, and a steam driven generator, which was a bit unpopular as the steam sometimes blocked the view for the gunners. The guns however, were not fired, the Russian fear faded but others rose, and the Defence Department had claimed itself a big block of land, so they put it to use.

WWI brought soldiers and sailors and soldiers to Fort Takapuna,including the first batch of Maori and then Cook Islands Soldiers for training. Barracks were hastily converted to a hospital in 1918, to cater for sufferers from the Influenza epidemic, then European prisoners of war. The underground areas were used as a naval munitions depot 1924-38, and the magazines remain.

Heritage NZ also places value on three remaining 4-inch emplacements, these were the guns from the HMS New Zealand a, warship the New Zealand people bought for the British, which was scrapped here after the war. Also still present here are a battery observation post, from the examination battery, 1938-59, and two naval observation post buildings from the precursor's of Puna Observation Post station.

During WW2 the Fort was used for a great variety of purposes and became temporary home to some of New Zealand's first servicewomen. It remained Defence property, training and barracks until 2000.

In 2012, a storm blew up over the three hectares the Navy still uses here, the Defence Force offering to sell it to Ngati Whatua as part of their Treaty Settlement. Locals argued that the block should become part of the Marine Park according to the 2000 Act of Parliament.

Because of the myriad of ownerships and uses, officially 'Fort Takapuna Reserve' has a variety of other names; 'O Peretu', came into it's own during the Ngati Whatua Treaty Settlement negotiations, 'Fort Caughtley' the name of the intended commander, Narrowneck Head' is a very literal name, 'HMNZS Tamaki Reserve' being a casual name, and HMNZS Philomel, the official title the sector used by the navy. More officially still, the entire headland is subject to the Hauraki Gulf Marine Park Act of 2000, which means it is a park.

Awataha Marae in Northcote is an urban marae that is now home to the remnants of the other Iwi who once occupied the Narrowneck area, and their history pages eloquently describe North Shore history from a pan-Maori perspective.

The location, with its panoramic views of the Gulf, provides a spectacular setting for a biennial sculpture exhibition. 'Sculpture OnShore' is held here in November.

Image Credit: Celia Walker