Waiau Kauri Grove

On the journey to Whitianga from Coromandel Town (or vice versa), it’s worth spending a day on the narrow winding gravel ‘309’ road (35–45 minutes driving time). From the Coromandel Town side, even if the through road is blocked by slips (a frequent consequence of storms in this area), you can usually drive the first 10 km to the Waiau Falls and the Kauri Grove. Stop at the Waiau Waterworks if whimsy and the unusual in artwork and engineering appeal.

For the energetic with good footwear, a 2-km drive on a muddy clay side road through pine forest takes you to the start of a scramble up a steep bush track to Castle Rock (allow 2 hours return). This ancient volcanic plug towers above the surrounding bush, providing spectacular views on a clear day. For the less energetic, a peaceful stroll beside the Waiau Falls or a swim in its pool might appeal.

The highlight on the ‘309’ road has to be the short walk through luxuriant native bush, along an old coach road to a ridge where a superb stand of mature kauri lift their crowns above the surrounding bush. A quick climb up onto the ridge brings you to the foot of these magnificent trees – the most accessible mature kauri stand on the Coromandel Peninsula. Allow time to linger here in this peaceful spot and absorb the serene dignity of these trees. Their crowns are silhouetted far above you against the sky, their massive spreading branches laden with epiphytic lilies and ferns. This 400–700 year old stand owes its survival to luck and determination.

Somehow escaping nineteenth century logging in this area, the trees were surveyed for felling at the beginning of the Second World War. But their survival had already given them the status of a local legend. Their continued existence was ensured by the determined efforts of the very bushmen contracted to cut the trees down. After a bushman’s gathering in the Coromandel hotel, they sent a telegram of protest to government officials in Wellington. Boosted by public support, the bushmen’s protest was successful, and the trees were given formal protection.