Hinehopu/Hongi's Track, Lake Rotoma, Other

Hongi's Track

Other Walks

Lake Rotoiti in the Bay of Plenty made it through to the twenty first century in relative tranquility.

Native bush still grows to the water’s edge. Pleasure boats find quiet coves where they can swim, picnic or fish in solitary contentment.

But the lake, which fills a volcanic crater between Lake Rotorua and neighbouring Lake Rotoehu, was involved in a far from peaceful incident. In the early nineteenth century, Maori chief, Hongi Hika, and his men hauled their war canoes through the forest from Lake Rotoehu to Lake Rotoiti.

Hongi was heading for Lake Rotorua at the southern end for a surprise attack on the local tribe, Arawa. The year was 1823 and the route blazed by Hongi and his men through the forest of rimu, tawa and rewa rewa is still referred to as Hongi’s Track. It’s well signposted and well worth walking.

You can drive to the entrance, at the north end of Lake Rotoiti, or arrive on the northern shore of the lake by private boat. Alternatively you can walk from the Lake Rotoehu end. Smaller and more secluded than Rotoiti, Rotoehu has limited vehicle access. The track extends for about two kilometres between the two lakes. Rotoehu, at the eastern end, was the starting point for the war-mongering Hongi Hika and his men.

Once through the forest, they stole across Lake Rotoiti and through the Ohau Channel that connects lakes Rotoiti and Rotorua, to attack the unsuspecting Arawa. Today the forest looks much as it would have done to Hongi Hika. Toppled by age, the trunks of ancient trees disappear under vines and vigorous saplings. Every now and then the sun flickers through the canopy but, mostly, it’s a world of luxurious green and shade and birdsong. The track is also named after Hinehopu, a fifteenth century Maori chieftainess who lived in the area.

On a sign beside an ancient matai tree (called the Wishing Tree of Ngati Pikiao) is the story of how Hinehopu was secreted there as a child by her mother to protect her from enemies. She also met her husband, Pikiao (II), under the tree and it became sacred to their union. The ceremony “Uru-uru-whenua” is sometimes performed by travellers passing the matai to ensure protection from evil spirits and bring fine weather for the remainder of their journey. The Wishing Tree is accessible both from Hongi’s Track and State Highway 30, the road to Whakatane, which skirts the forest.

Allow up to two hours return to walk the track. Depending on the weather, a cooling swim in the lakes at either end may appeal. In colder weather, those in the know drive out along State Highwy 30 toward Lake Rotoma, to the Waitangi Soda Springs, and soak in the open air in an embrace of tingling hot water. It’s pure bliss, rain, hail, sun, or starlight.

The Maori Trust owners of the springs have not compromised the natural environment by building changing sheds. And those who discover the gurgling springs agree that nature works a charm.

A Wild Wind from the North: Hongi Hika's 1823 Invasion of Rotorua


Guns and Roses (Portrait of Hongi Hika) Print by Lester Hall

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