Maori legend tells that the Marlborough Sounds are the submerged prow of a giant waka, or canoe, that capsized while bringing mythical gods down from the heavens. The many miles of water-lined bays and headlands stand testimony to this story, although science has since defined the Sounds more accurately as the only large area of land in the country that is sinking into the sea, not rising.
Queen Charlotte Sound is one of the main bodies of water in the Marlborough Sounds, and the one most often visited by those arriving for the first time, either on the inter-island ferries or on a nature or fishing cruise out of Picton.
Just out of sight of the main waterway, and a 40 minute boat ride from Picton, the Bay of Many Coves Resort has been built on a sheltered arm of water in the bay of the same name. Having won several national awards for its iconic New Zealand beach house design, the theme is loosely nautical, with lots of timber, louvres and decking, shade sails and heavy rigging. The resort sits to the north, overlooking a windstreaked channel where dolphins come to play on winter afternoons. In summer guests can kayak, fish or swim in the bay, surrounded by emerald green native bush and intensely blue sea.
Only a short boat ride from the resort, Long Island Marine Reserve and the wildlife sanctuary on Motuara Island both o?er a chance to see local ?ora and fauna, both above and below the water. Motuara Island is a bird sanctuary and is an important site for enhancing populations of South Island saddlebacks and little brown kiwi. Small blue penguins, wood pigeons, bellbirds and fantails are all common on the island and their birdsong is almost overwhelming at times. Beneath the water at Long Island, a favourite local dive site, cheeky cray?sh lie out in front of their crevices, safe in the knowledge they can’t be taken for lunch from this marine reserve. Blue cod, carpet sharks and blue moki are common, and more unusual sightings of organisms like transparent salp make it a dive to do more than once.
Back at the resort though, fish is definitely on the menu. The on-site restaurant ensures that guests have fresh bread for breakfast and the tastiest of fish for lunch. Watch the sunset from the restaurant deck, a glass of local sauvignon blanc in hand and a bowl of steamed greenshell mussels on the table.
© Sue Farley 2006
BAY OF MANY COVES HELICOPTER TOUR FROM WELLINGTON
Image Credit: Viator
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