53 Korua Street, Moana, Grey

Moana - Lake Brunner

Grey Walks

A special spot on a deep and generous lake, the small town of Moana holds a its own place in the hearts of many West Coasters. This is place young Coasters go to learn to fish, canoe and waterski. Though the town is called 'Moana', which means 'Ocean,' the anomaly can be explained in that the correct local name for the lake was "Kotuku Moana", meaning sea of white herons. Herons still nest here in abundance. A few mini booms in recent times have seen a few families settle here after the Canterbury Earthquakes but it retains it's laid-back character and the barest of services by way of a wharf, motor camp, hotel and general store. The former glacial lake itself, which flows into the Arnold River, covers 40km2 and there are several local legends about it's depth and what lies at the bottom. Though the West Coast Regional Council reports the water quality is declining, there remains plentiful trout of impressive size. There are limits on the number of trout, rainbow trout and salmon which can be taken but fishermen are rarely disappointed by their size. Other popular activities for visitors, who may arrive by rail or car, include picnicking, boating and walking or jogging the lakeside trail.

The lake on a still, misty morning is eerie in its silence. Kahikatea trees droop over the shore, trailing moss and dropping tiny leaves into the dark, shiny water. Through the mist, the sun casts a hazy glow as the morning proceeds. Slowly it clears to reveal Lake Brunner as a wide body of sparkling water, with the small village of Moana a distant highlight on the far side. Lake Brunner has several claims to fame. It is a world-class trout fish- ing spot, it has feisty breezes for the fleets of trailer yachts that sail its waterways, and it is a significant area for hiking pretty bush tracks and reserve areas of virgin forest. In the early days, local Maori used to trade the jade-coloured greenstone but this led to conflict with marauding tribes and the local community was severely depleted. One of the first Europeans to visit was the explorer, Thomas Brunner, for whom the lake was later named. His work eventually led to the area being opened up for a significant trade in timber as the surrounding land was exploited by loggers. Modern-day activities have reversed that trend to good effect and tour- ism is now a significant earner. This has led to the preservation of existing stands of native forest, protection of the lake itself from major development, and the opening of a number of excellent walkways at places like the Arnold River, and Mitchells on the southern shore. A very scenic drive in, from Kumara through the Hohona Reserve to Mitchells, is a special treat, particularly in a thick West Coast rain when the trees sluice water from their branches and the mist sits eerily at ground level, bouncing off the headlight beams and reducing visibility to a few metres. Local attractions include a gold-mining venture, kayaking on the lake, fishing for brown trout, salmon and kahawai, either in the lake or surrounding rivers, visiting working artists, and a number of scenic walking tracks. One of the easiest ways to visit is to join the TranzAlpine Express in Christchurch and cross the Southern Alps on a spectacular train journey. Leaving the train at either Moana or Jackson, depending on accommodation choices, this provides an excellent option for a several- day stopover before rejoining the train for the journey back, or moving further south to the glaciers.

© Sue Farley 2005

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