Ahipara and Shipwreck Bay

This is Northland's wild west. The captains of dozens of ships found this out the hard way in the early days of Paheka exploration of Aotearoa. However there is some serenity at slightly sheltered Ahipara, especially when the wind is not blowing.

The Tangata Whenua here have always been Te Rarawa, and their bases are Roma Marae and Ohaki Marae. The connection of this Iwi to Christianity is strong, and there remains here on a hill, a little church named St Clement's, which was built in 1872.

At low tide, there are the remnants of some shipwrecks visible. Interestingly, the locals are so passionate about the relics that a large and expensive effort was mounted to return one to the beach after one man damaged it with a grinder and the sea broke it away.

The favoured activity for tourists here, due to the vastness of the area, is to go for a drive on the beach, this is the south end of 90 mile beach. Four wheel drives are recommended, and choosing low tide is essential. Another feature of historic interest is the Ahipara Gumfields Historic Reserve, A DOC managed eco-reserve. Like other parts of Northland, digging and mining of Kauri Gum used to bring money into the area. Until the Gum ran out. Here at Ahipara there was never a wharf, and the ships taking the precious cargo away used to use the Shipwreck Bay beach, after it was carted to the coast by bullock and cart.

Surfers should be experienced and not alone when they head out to this break, which is best in a north-westerly, can get huge in a southerly. If in doubt don't go out. Nearby Tauroa Point provides a well-known left-hand surf break.

This is also a good spot for kitesurfing, but again watch for the tide.

There are a range of accommodation options here, but it might be hard to go past the heritage listed and picturesque 'Endless Summer Lodge' on the forshore. It is old and sturdy and symmetrical and used to go by the names Reid House and Shady Rest.

For the casual camper, there is a patch of grass at the end of Wreck Bay Road, with the friendly greeting 'Haere Mai, Te Kohanga Camping Ground.' If you are planning on any kind of fishing, please ask around first, there have been Rahui in place up here. When a Rahui was challenged with the felling of a Pou in 2019, Te Rarawa made their displeasure known by blocking the road for a time.

Artist Colin McCahon painted a work named Ahipara in 1970, it is held at Te Papa.

Image Credits: Brewbrooks, Gadfium, Philip Capper, and Sids1.
Auckland Libraries Heritage Images; A Far north 'sport', Maoris diving for crayfish at Reef Point Ahipara, An old Maori Church and Churchyard at Ahipara, Natives attending the Land Court at Ahipara, 1904, Auckland Weekly News, and Ahipara Bay Stapley Farmer