78 Parnell Street, Kohukohu, Far North
This historic town is served by a car ferry. It actually used to be called 'Herd's Point', from 1840 until the government planned the town of Rawene in 1860. So grand were the plans for Rawene that an enormous domain was set up on the 'east side of the point', but it hasn't yet been developed.
From Rawene you can cross the Hokianga harbour to travel north through Kohukohu. Alternatively you can travel south through Kohukohu and reach Rawene by ferry. In Rawene you can visit Clendon House, the last home of James Reddy Clendon.
There is a popular café here on the waterfront called Boat Shed Café & Crafts. You can get coffee and eats here while waiting for the ferry, which is still a reasonable $20 for cars.
The Rawene Courthouse is a classic bit of history, having been built here in 1876, to the Italianate plans of government architect William Clayton. It has been said that even after the Treaty of Waitangi, Maori controlled justice in Hokianga, and the building of this court may have marked a change. As well as criminal courts, Maori land hearings took place here, and some proceedings to do with a civil disruption called the Hokianga Dog Tax Rebellion in 1898. This building also used to double as a Police Station and there is a separate lock up out the back. The building has moved neatly into retirement service as the town library.
Likewise, the Postmasters House, a 1920 Kauri villa, now has a job as the 'Postmasters lodgings' and the legendary Rawene Masonic Hotel is still in business. Constructed from Kauri in 1879, it is of the two storied double veranda style which is common throughout Northland. The Publican got a little national publicity, and applause from Maori Public Health in 2018 when he did away with his gaming machines after a local woman left her baby outside while she went for a flutter.
Even older is the Wharf Hotel, which might date back to the 1840s, along with it's 1878 extension and various other alterations. It is now a private house but in between times it has served as a minister's home, and a hospital, a boarding house. If you also sniff a bit of heritage in the store opposite the wharf (which may be operating as a gallery) and the butcher shop, you would be on the right track, both also host their share of Rawene Heritage.
Rawene wharf, October 1957, Rawene, by Eric Lee-Johnson. Purchased 1997 with New Zealand Lottery Grants Board funds. © Te Papa. CC BY-NC-ND licence. Te Papa (O.006555/01)
Image Credits: Koenraad Kuiper
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