North Head Historic Reserve - Maungauika

**Maungauika/North Head
** by Celia Walker

There seems to be something about the tunnels under Maungauika/North Head that over-stimulates the imagination of many – whether it is the darkness, the depths, the creeping damp, the quiet chill… but they have in their time sparked rumours of hidden aircraft and secret ammunition hoards. While nothing substantial has been found to lurk in the shadows (other than the occasional rough sleeper) the conspiracy theories can be hard to suppress. Other not-so-tall tales from the maunga’s long and lively history are just as compelling: narratives of voyaging warriors and warfare, fortifications and occupation, migrations and arrivals.

Thankfully the proper name Maungauika (the maunga of the ancestor Uika) has been restored to this landmark that watches over the entry to the harbour of Tamaki Makaurau. It is a significant taonga, with a history stretching back to the earliest Polynesian arrivals to Aotearoa. Although archaeological discoveries have been made in the vicinity, a lack of obvious terracing or other worked landscape features on the site suggests that nearby cone of Takarunga (Mt Victoria) was the primary pa site in the area. Local archaeologist and long-time Department of Conservation historian, Dave Veart, weaves some fabulous stories about discoveries here – you might be lucky enough to find him taking a tour during Heritage or Conservation Week, and you can hear about some of his discoveries [here:

](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4ICh4YOW-I&amp=&feature=youtu.be "YouTube - Meet the Locals - Maungauika")

The caves dug by prisoners in the 1880s have pick marks still evident, the disappearing gun at the South Battery that could be raised and lowered to fight off invading enemies is still in situ – the many fortifications a result of nervousness at various times of invading Russians, Germans, and Japanese, and there are explorable tunnels all over the mountain. Picnic Bay, Secret Cove, North Head Beach – whatever you want to call it – this postcard of a beach at the base of Maungauika’s northern side is also the start of the coastal walkway. This walking track leads past caves and fortifications around to the searchlight tunnels at the southern end.

The proximity to the sea, the tight fit under parts of the overhanging cliffs, and of course, a tunnel or two, makes for a good jaunt,
take a torch if you get jittery in dark spaces. Despite being the largest fortified site in the country, Maungauika has suffered under years of quiet neglect, with rampant weed issues in some places. Exciting times lay ahead, with the handover back to iwi and the Tupuna Maunga Authority enabling a more considered and managed approach to restoration of this feature landscape. With greater attention paid to naming, story-telling and place-making through restoration planting, this should help pull the long history of Maori significance and occupation back out from under the weight of pakeha built structures.

Image Credits: Celia Walker North Head, Devonport and Cheltenham, North Shore, Auckland. Ref: WA-24240-G. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22770021

NORTH AUCKLAND - EAST COAST SUN AND SAND TOUR

It is easy to walk to North Head from the Devonport ferry terminal, along interesting King Edward Parade (2.5km one way) or you can take a regular tour bus. There is a short self-guided walk at North Head. The DOC Website is very informative.

Image Credits: Celia Walker