Lighthouse Road, Lake Grassmere, Marlborough
The northeastern tip of the South Island was known to Maori as Te Karaka or more officially, Te Rae-o-te-kohaka. It featured in the interaction between Rangitane, Ngati Kuri and Kati Mamoe. Ngati Kuri eventually took over the sought after Kaikoura area after events sparked by conflict here.
For Pakeha, Cape Campbell (James Cook named it after a famous navigator) was initially a rugged and treacherous coastline, where risks abounded for vessels of all sizes. The first recorded shipwreck here was in 1845, and they continued to wreck until 1947. For this reason a lighthouse was proposed, and building began in 1869. Though the wooden tower was up and the oil lamp turned on in 1870, the worst shipwreck of all, The Rifleman, which was en-route from Lyttleton to Havelock, took place in 1871. All aboard were lost.
The wooden structure proved no match for the elements either and only lasted until 1905, when a cast iron replacement was ordered. The new lighthouse wore the internationally recognised, but rare in New Zealand, coat of red and white stripes. And still does. The only other stripy lighthouses are at Dog Island and Baring Head.
Perhaps for this reason, it was chosen to star in the 2016 film 'Light between Oceans' posing as an island outpost off the coast of Tasmania.
Now that the days of dangerous fighting and shipping are over, the other beauty of Cape Campbell has been uncovered. And it lies in wildlife, and views. The sweep of Clifford Bay to the west and the rugged east coast on the other side clash at this wild corner where Cook Strait becomes the Pacific Ocean. Visitors want to experience this and can, via six kilometre walk from Marfells Beach. Apparently this is much easier and a little faster thanks to coastal uplift experienced after the 2016 earthquake. Cape Campbell Farmers also offer access via their farm road, and accommodation of various types including the 'lighthouse keepers house' set from the movie.
Or a commercial walk will guide you on a 4 day 4 night journey.
Image Credit: Cape Campbell Sunrise, Philip Capper Wellington 2005
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