Kaikoura Whalewatch

To learn more about the historic whaling industry here, listen to our audioguide.

NZPlaces here presents a firsthand account of the whale watching experience:

For many tourists, seeking sight of Kaikoura’s whales is a main reason for coming to New Zealand. Many Kiwis, too, regard this as a great experience. We realised it wasn’t just the sight of the whales, but the whole event that made the experience special.

The company we booked through was totally professional and the staff as friendly and helpful as they could be. Some people are worried about going out on a boat in a rough sea. Advice is given, bookings may be cancelled and up to 80% of the ticket price refunded if you don’t see a whale. You’re recommended, if you’re prone to sea-sickness, to take something for it about 2 hours before sailing.

When you arrive at the terminal you’re shown a video of what to expect on the trip and are given comprehensive instructions for safety on board. During the trip, your very well-trained guide gives full details not only about the whales but also about the environment and any other species of fish, mammal or bird you might see.

The Hunt for Whales

A big part of the experience is the sensation of taking part in a search that involves advanced technology, local awareness, and the instinct of the captain. We had read a little about whaling before we went aboard, so it wasn’t difficult to transport ourselves back 150 years and imagine the race in a rowboat and the fear of coming so close to one of the mighty animals. From the reception area we boarded a bus that took us to South Bay on the other side of the Kaikoura Peninsula. The bus driver added further information about what to expect. We went on the 7.15 a.m. sailing and boarded a 40 seater catamaran with powerful engines that drove us over light waves at more than 30 knots - the speed of a whitewater jet.

Part of the excitement comes from knowing we were travelling over a deep offshore canyon where the sperm whales may dive to 2,500 metres and stay down for up to 2.5 hours to catch giant squid and bring them to the surface to eat. Some kilometres out from shore we stopped in an area near where whales were last seen the day before. The captain lowered a sonar scanner and soon explained that there was a whale nearby communicating with others further out. He raised the scanner and again we shot off across the waves. In only a few minutes we were told to watch for water spouts as we slowed and coasted. Again, the excitement hit when we spied the fountain and two huge bulks wallowing in the placid swell. These two were hyperventilating - charging their muscles, cells and lungs with oxygen so that they can stay down for a long time. When the tails went up for the dive, our cameras clicked from about 30 metres away. Our guide told us the whales would be down for 40 or 50 minutes and we would come back to see them later. We felt privileged that day. We saw another couple diving and then went back to watch the original pair dive again.

An unexpected bonus was a huge albatross resting on the water 2 or 3 hundred metres away. As we sped past, it rose and gracefully performed a fly-by, watching us from its large eye. It made our speed seem puny as it barely beat its wings. When we reached our whales, the albatross circled but, we were told, could see no scraps surrounding the mammoths who are messy eaters. So, it flew on, probably to entertain other passengers. After our sightings of whales, the captain turned inshore where he hoped to find a pod of dolphins. On scanning a melée of seagulls, he headed to where we saw the dorsal fins of two dolphins circling, water churning with the fish they were hunting. Then something extraordinary happened. As we approached, the dolphins ceased their circling and headed towards land, gradually spreading in a huge arc before us. Soon we were amongst the eighty or more mammals and joining their chase. Later, near the end of our time, we made our way home via a rock shelf where seals lay.

During the journey, the wind gradually increased. One person was seasick - badly. Some passengers felt just a little woozy. Most of us were elated the whole time. The mid- morning sailing had been cancelled when we returned to base, because the wind would make sailing uncomfortable. We were glad we took the early trip when the sea is more likely to be calm. The animals, the chase, the setting of sea and snow-capped mountains and the interesting information about the whales, their breathing, fights with orca and their migratory and social habits, made this a fascinating experience.

WHALEWATCH IN KAIKOURA BY BOAT

KAIKOURA OVERNIGHT WHALE AND DOLPHIN TOUR FROM CHRISTCHURCH